Kusiyana pakati peRetinol, Retin-A, uye Retinoids
Kuchengetedza kweganda zvinogona kuvhiringidza, kunyanya kana vane mazita akafanana anonzwika: Retinol, Retin-A , retinoids. Chii chakasiyana?
Kunyange zvazvo izvozvi zvose zvibatanidza zvakabatana, zvine matambudziko makuru. Kudzidza kusiyanisa pakati pavo vose kuchakubatsira kusarudza iyo inenge yakanakisisa paganda rako.
Chii Chinonzi Retinoids?
Retinoid ishoko rinoshandiswa kurondedzera boka remakemikari anobva ku vitamini A.
Retinoids ndivo vanodikanwa vepasi rekuchengetwa kweganda nokuti vanoita zvakawanda zveganda.
Paunoshandisa retinoids nguva dzose, ruvara rweganda rako ruchava firmer, ruvara rweganda runobwinya, uye ruvara rwako rose ruchajeka. Retinoids inogona kuwedzera kuwanda kwegrogen, uye humwe uchapupu hunoratidza kuti inogona kuwedzera elastin yekugadzira zvakare. Sezvaunogona kufungidzira, izvi zvinoita kuti retinoid inopesana nevasarudzo uye inoshandiswa kudzivirira nekudzosa zviratidzo zvekwegura.
Retinoids inowedzerawo kutengesa kushandiswa kwema cell , uye inogona kubatsira kubvisa pores. Saka retinoids inoshandiswawo kubata mushonga.
Retinol uye Retin-A zvose zvinowedzera retinoids. Izvo zvose zvinobva ku vitamini A. Izvi zvinotsanangura kuti nei vane mazita akadaro anonzwika. Funga nezvazvo nenzira iyi: Retinol uye Retin-A ndiwo mavara e-retinoid, sezvakaita apulo uye kiyi yakakosha ndiyo marudzi epies.
Iyi haisi yega inonzi retinoids inowanika, kunyange zvakadaro. Retin-A Micro (tretinoin) , Renova (tretinoin), Tazorac (tazarotene) zvose zvinonzi retinoids.
Differin, iyo yaimbova yemishonga-iyo chete mishonga yemishonga iyo ikozvino inowanikwa pamusoro pekambani, inowanzoiswa mumukoko we retinoid. Kunyange zvazvo chigadziro chinoshandiswa mu Differin (adapalene) hachisi chaiwo retinoid, inoshanda zvikuru nenzira imwechete. Saka iwe unogonawo kuwona Differin yakanyorwa setipio retinoid kana se-retinoid-semakundi pamwe chete.
Chii Chinonzi Retinol?
Saka zvino iwe unoziva kuti retinol uye Retin-A ndiwo mapoka maviri e retinoids. Asi musiyano wei pakati pezviviri?
Retinol inowanzoita mavitamini A. Inowanikwa mune dzakawanda kurapwa kweganda uye zvinhu zvakanaka. Inogona kubatsira kuita kuti ganda rako ritaridzire kujeka, uye rinonzwa rakanyanya uye rinotonhora. Inogonawo kubatsira kudzivirira mitsetse yakanaka nemakwenzi.
Retinol pachayo haibatsiri ganda zvakananga. Maitiro enyama mukati meganda anotanga kushandura retinol kusvika retinoic acid. Ndizvo chete kana zvashandurwa kuva retinoic acid kuti inoshanda.
Iyi haisi iyo nzira pakarepo, kunyange zvakadaro. Kutendeuka kunogona kutora nguva yakareba. Uyezve, yakawanda sei retinol inenge yakashandurwa kuva retinoic acid inotsamira pane zvinhu zvakawanda, kusanganisira yakawanda ye retinol muchigadzirwa kutanga, uye kana yakasvibiswa (kunyanya kukosha kwechigadzirwa chako kana kuti yakareba kwenguva yakareba sei). Uye, zvinonakidza, vamwe vanhu vanodzoka retinol kuti ive retinoic acid nokukurumidza kupfuura vamwe.
Nemhaka yezvinhu zvose izvi, retinol ishoma kushanda. Iwe hauzooni zvakawanda munzira yemigumisiro kwemwedzi mitanhatu kana kupfuura. Migumisiro inowedzera, saka kana iwe uchiri kushandisa kwenguva yakareba mitsva iri nani yauchaona. Kunyange zvakadaro, yeuka kuti kana retinol iri kuwedzerwa kwakanaka kune tsika yako yekurwisana nekukwegura kweganda, haisi chirwere chishamiso.
Iwe unogona kunge usingaoni kuchinja kukuru.
Kunyange zvakadaro, retinol zvigadzirwa zvinogona kuvandudza ganda zvimwe. Uye iyo mashoko akanaka ndezvokugadzirisa zvinhu zvinowanzova zvinyoro.
Retinol inogona kukonzera migumisiro zvakare, asi inowanzoshungurudza kudarika Retin-A. Iwe unogona kuona kuti ganda rako rinotonhora kana wapedza kushandisa retinol chigadzirwa. Chimwe chekurova kana kuoma kunowanzoshamisa, asi kazhinji kazhinji kanyoro. Vanhu vazhinji vanogona kushandisa retinol pasina zvakawanda zvehupfumi asi kana ganda rako richiita sechitsamwira iwe unofanira kumira kushandisa chigadzirwa.
Chii Chinonzi Retin-A?
Retin-A ndiyo inonzi zita rechirwere chetretinoin. Retin-A inomirira mavhitamin A.
Kusiyana ne retinol, Retin-A ndiyo mishonga-mishonga chete. Inowanzoshandiswa kurapa zvose zvekuvhiringidza acne uye comedonal breakouts . Retin-A inoshandiswa zvinoshandiswa, tretinoin, inoshandiswawo kubata mitsara yakanaka nemakwenzi, kuchenesa muvara, uye kupera hyperpigmentation ( mashizha emasikati akasiyiwa nemagetsi anopera kana zuva kuora).
Tretinoin inozivikanwawo se-retinoic acid, saka Retin-A inonyatsobata ganda. Nemhaka yokuti haufaniri kumirira ganda kuti richinje, Retin-A rinoshanda nekukurumidza uye rine simba kupfuura zvinhu zve retinol. Chaizvoizvo, unogona kuona kuvandudzwa kweganda muvhiki masere kusvika masere nguva.
Asi simba rakawedzerwa rinouya nekunonoka. Iwe unowanzoona michero yakaita sekuoma , kubwinya, kutsva, kupenya uye kuputika, uchishandisa Retin-A kana zvichienzaniswa nemitambo ye retinol.
Will Retinol Ipai Zvimwe Zvakawanikwa Sezvakaita Retin-A?
Kwete. Kunyange zvazvo vachishanda nenzira dzakafanana, retinol haisi yakafanana neRetin-A. Kunyange zvazvo vamwe vanogona kudana retinol ye-over-the-counter version yeRetin-A, haisi kuchinjana.
Nenzira, retinol uye Retin-A vanoita zvimwechetezvo. Asi retinol yakanyanya kusimba kupfuura Retin-A nokuti inotanga kuchinjwa kuva retinoic acid kuitira kuti ishandiswe neganda. Retin-A inonzi retinoic acid, saka inogona kushandiswa zvakananga neganda nguva pfupi inoshandiswa.
Sezvo zvakadaro, Retin-A ane simba kupfuura retinol. Kunyange yakaderera simba Retin-A yakasimba kudarika simba rakakwirira retinol chigadzirwa.
Retinol dzimwe nguva inowedzerwa kumishonga yeOTC acne, asi haisi mushonga wekubata mukati mawo. Inoshandiswa kakawanda se-anti-ager.
Retinol vs. Retin-A: Nzira Yokusarudza Sei Zvakakodzera Mutengo Wako Ganda
Pasinei nokuti unosarudza retinol kana Retin-A inobva pane zvinangwa zvako zvinopera. Kune zvipo uye zvipingamupinyi kune umwe neumwe.
Kana uri kutarisa kupa ganda rako kukurudzira zvishoma, kubvisa zvimwe zviratidzo zvekukwegura, uye iwe hauna matambudziko makuru anoda kutariswa, retinol ndiyo yakasarudzwa zvikuru. Tsvaga retinol muchipatara-pane mishonga yakafanana nemafuta, makemikari, maziso eziso uye serums.
Kune marudzi akasiyana-siyana ekudzorera retinol. Saka iwe uchiri kutarisa zvinoshandiswa pakutsvaga pamusoro peguru rinopesana nekukwegura, zvichida hauzoni retinol. Panzvimbo pezvo, iwe uchaona mazita ere retinol anoshandiswa mumuchero iwoyo: retinal, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate. Iyo yakakwirira muzvinyorwa zvinongororwa, ndiyo yakawanda retinol iyo michina ine. Kana yakanyorwa yakafa pakupedzisira, haina ine retinol yakawandisa uye zvichida haizombobudiriri.
Nokuda kwezvinhu zvakadai seAcne, blackheads, zvinetso zvekugadzirisa uye midzi yakadzama nemakwenzi, Retin-A achakupa mamwe bang buck yako. Hungu, izvi zvinoreva kuenda kune dermatologist kune chiremba, asi kwenguva yakareba, uchawana mimwe migumisiro inoshamisa neine retinoid yemishonga kupfuura iwe iwe ne-over-the-counter version.
Asi hazvifaniri kuva imwe / kana chisarudzo. Retinol inogona kuva danho rakanaka rokutanga risati rasimuka richienda kune simba, uye rinogona kunge rinotyisa, Retin-A. Ganda rako zvishoma nezvishoma rinowanzojairika kune retinoid sezvaunoshandisa. Izvi hazvirevi kuti havashandi pamwe nekufamba kwenguva; vanoita. Iwe uchangobva kucherechedza maitiro ekuoma kana kuoma uye kufungidzira kunoderera kudarika nguva. Kutanga neve-over-the-counter retinoid chigadzirwa kunogona kubatsira kubvumira ganda rako kumagumo ezvinyorwa zvekare uye kuderedza migumisiro yemagumisiro kana uye kana iwe pakupedzisira uchinge waenda kuchipatara Retin-A.
Shoko Rinobva
Chero chekudzorera iwe unoshandisa, shisi rezuva rinofanira . Retinoids inogona kuita kuti ganda rako riwedzere kupisa zuva rinopisa, nekuda kwemasero matsva eganda riri pamusoro peganda rako. Kunyange kana iwe usingiri kupisa, kuora kwezuva kunogona kuitika. Kuti udzivirire ganda rako, shandisa retinoid yako usiku uye shandisa sunscreen ne SPF ye30 kana kupfuura mangwanani oga oga.
Iwe unogonawo kuisa zvishoma nezvishoma ganda rako kumushonga wako mutsva wokutora (ichi ndicho chirevo chakanakisisa kana iwe uine ganda rakanyanya). Edza kushandisa yako retinol chigadzirwa chechipiri kusvika katatu pavhiki pakutanga. Izvi zvichaita kuti ganda rako rienzaniswe ne retinol uye riite kuti zvive nyore iwe uchakurira kutsamwa. Ita zvishoma nezvishoma kusvika paanokwanisa kushandisa chigadzirwa chako zuva roga roga pasina ganda rako rinopikisa.
Retinoids inogona kunge iri kuwedzera kuwedzerwa kune tsika yako yekuchengetedza ganda. Kana uchida rubatsiro kuwana retinoid chigadzirwa, chiremba wako kana dermatologist anogona kukubatsira kusarudza imwe.
> Sources:
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> Nohynek GJ. "Commentary pamusoro peKuchengetedzwa kweTopical Vitamin A muZvongedzo." Regululatory Toxicology uye Pharmacology. 2017 Oct; 89: 302-304.
> Zaenglein AL, Pathy AL, Schlosser BJ, Alikhan A, Baldwin HE, et. al. "Mirayiridzo Yokutarisira Kutungamirirwa kweAcne Vulgaris." Nyaya yeAmerican Academy yeDermatology. 2016; 74 (5): 945-73.