Zvikonzero zvekuedza kupesana nekukwegura kweganda
Sekuwedzera kwekutsvakurudza kwakatarira kune chinokonzera wrinkles nemigumisiro ye photoaging , kushandiswa kwe beta hydroxy acid kwawedzera zvikuru mukuzivikanwa. Kune marudzi maviri e hydroxy acids: alpha uye beta. Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) inonzi exfoliants iyo inobva muzvibereko nemukaka ushuga zvakadai seglycolic acid , inobudiswa kubva kune shuga uye lactic acid (inobudiswa kubva mumukaka).
Kune chete beta imwe hydroxy acid (BHA) inowanzoshandiswa mumishonga ekuchengetedza kweganda, uye iyo salicylic acid, inobva ku aspirin.
Iyo Beta Hydroxy Acid Inoshanda Sei
Beta hydroxy acid inonyanya kushanda seiyo yakawanda. Icho chinokonzera masero epidermis (kunze kwekunze kweganda) kuti ave "asina kufanana," achibvumira masero echepachifa akafa, achiita nzvimbo ye regrowth yeganda idzva. Beta hydroxy acid inonzi inokurudzira wrinkling, roughness, uye mavara emagetsi ane ganda rakagadzirirwa pashure pemwedzi mitanhatu yekushanda kwezuva nezuva. Beta hydroxy acid iyo inowanikwa mumagadzirwa e-skincare inoshanda zvakanakisisa mumusana we1 muzana kusvika 2 muzana uye pH ye 3 kusvika ku4.
Kusiyana pakati peAlfa neBeta Hydroxy Acids
Mhedzisiro huru pakati pe alpha hydroxy acids uye beta hydroxy acid ndiyo lipid (mafuta) inogadziriswa. Alpha hydroxy acids inogadzikana mumvura chete, asi beta hydroxy acid ine lipid-yakasanganiswa, zvinoreva kuti ichapedza mumafuta.
Izvi zvinoreva kuti beta hydroxy acid inokwanisa kupinda mukati mepore, iyo inowedzera sebum yakawanda uye inopfurikidza masvikiro echeche akafa anovaka mukati mepore. Pamusana pekuparadzaniswa kwemamiriro aya, beta hydroxy acid inoshandiswa zviri nani kune ganda rine mafuta nemasheads uye whiteheads . Alpha inonzi hydroxy acids inoshandiswa zviri nani pane yakasvibiswa, ganda rinoparadza zuva umo kuputika hakusi dambudziko.
Sun Sensitivity
Kushandiswa kwe beta hydroxy acid kunogona kuwedzera zuva senzwivhiti ne50 muzana, zvichikonzera dambudziko rinonakidza. Zvinoratidzika kuti beta hydroxy acid inogona kuchinja zvimwe zvinokonzerwa ne photoaging, asi panguva imwe chete, inoita kuti ganda riwedzere kugadziriswa. Zvakajeka kuti ani naani ari kushandisa beta hydroxy acid anofanira kushandisa shandi yezuva yakanaka ine uVA uye UVB kudzivirira.
Chenjerera Kune Ganda Irritation
Beta hydroxy acid inoratidzika seisingatsamwi kudarika alpha hydroxy acid, kunyange zvazvo inopinda mukati kusvika pore. Izvi zvinokonzerwa nokuti salicylic acid inobva kuacetylsalicylic acid kana aspirin. Aspirin ine anti-inflammatory properties, uye salicylic acid ine zvakawanda zvezvinopesana nezvirwere. Pasinei neizvi, beta hydroxy acid inogona kukonzera kupisa kweganda. Zviratidzo zvekutsamwirwa zvinosanganisira kubwinya, kupisa, kuchenesa, kurwadziwa, uye zvichida kuora. Vanhu vane ganda rakapfava vari pangozi yakakura yekucheka pigment inoshandurwa ne beta hydroxy acid.
Kushandisa Beta Hydroxy Acid
Beta hydroxy acid inowanikwa mumhando dzakasiyana-siyana dzekuchengetwa kweganda kusanganisira mikoko , vanonatsa, mafuta echisi, shisi yezuva, uye nheyo. Zvakanakisisa kusarudza chigadzirwa chimwe chine kuumbwa kwakakodzera kweBeta hydroxy acid kuti ishandise sewe exfoliant, uye osarudza mamwe mishonga ekuchengetedza kweganda kana zvipfeko zvisina hydroxy acidho kuderedza mukana wekutsamwa kweganda.
Kushandisa beta hydroxy acid mumusango we moisturizer kungave kwakanakisisa. Vanochenesa vane beta hydroxy acid havasi ivo vanobudirira nokuti beta hydroxy acid inofanira kuiswa mukati meganda kushanda. Vanochenesa vanoshambidzwa vasati vanyatsotora.
Hakuchina michina inobatanidza iyo inobatanidza beta hydroxy acid uye sunscreen nokuti zuva rezuva haritsigiri pa pH inotarisirwa kuita kuti beta hydroxy acid ishande. Chisikiti chinofanira kushandiswa kusununguka kana uchishandisa beta hydroxy acid chigadzirwa. Zuva rekushanda rinofanira kuva ne SPF yevhisi 15 yekudzivirirwa kweVVB (inenge 30 kana yakakwirira) uye ine avobenzone, titanium dioxide, kana zinc oxide yekudzivirirwa kweUVA.
Beta hydroxy acid inoshanda zvakanakisisa mumatambudziko e1 kusvika ku2 muzana uye pH ye3 kusvika ku4. Nhamo, vaiti vezvipfeko havadi kuti vaisewo pH ruzivo pamusoro perairi. Nzira chete yekuziva pH yezvakagadzirwa ndeyokuiongorora ne pH strip.
Kusiyana ne-alpha hydroxy acid, iyo inofanira kuve yakarongwa mumatatu makuru ekuratidza kuratidza kwakakodzera, beta hydroxy acid inogona kuverengwa pakati kana kunyange kusvika pasi pezvigadzirwa zvinyorwa nokuti inoshanda pakadzika kwepamusoro.
> Kwakabva:
> Beta Hydroxy Acids. US Food and Drug Administration. https://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductsIngredients/Ingredients/ucm107943.htm.