Ko An Alpha Hydroxy Acid Skin Peel Inogona Kuderedza Wrinkles?
Nekutsvakurudza kuwedzera kune izvo zvinokonzera wrinkles nemigumisiro ye photoaging , alpha hydroxy acids yakawedzera zvikuru mukuzivikanwa.
Alpha hydroxy acids yakashandiswa kwezviuru zvemakore seganda rinogadzirisa chigadzirwa. Cleopatra inonzi yakashambidzwa mumukaka wakaoma (lactic acid) kuvandudza ruvara rwayo. Iyezvino hydroxy acids inowedzera kuwedzera kune zvinhu zvakawanda zvekuchengetedza kweganda, kusanganisira minitirizers , cleansers, toners, uye masks.
Kubata uye Nhamba dzeAlfa Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids inobva muzvibereko uye mukaka ushuga. Iyo inowanzoshandiswa alpha hydroxy acids iine glycolic acid uye lactic acid nokuti ine ruzivo rwakakosha kupinda mukati meganda. Ivo vanewo zvinyorwa zvesayenzi pamusoro pekubudirira kwavo uye nemigumisiro. Izvozvi ndezvipi zvishanu zvinyorwa zvema alpha hydroxy acids zvinowanikwa muzvigadzirwa zve skincare uye zvinyorwa zvavo:
- Glycolic acid: shuga
- Lactic acid: mukaka
- Malic acid : apuro uye mapeari
- Citric acid: maarangi uye mandimu
- Tartaric acid: mazambiringa
Nzira yei Alpha Hydroxy Acids Shanda paChangu
Alpha hydroxy acids inoshanda zvikuru seye exfoliant . Zvinokonzera kuti masero epidermis (kumusoro kweganda) ave "asingabvumirwi" achibvumira masero emaperembudzi akafa kuti asvike, achiita nzvimbo yekudzorera ganda idzva. Alpha hydroxy acids inogona kutokurudzira kugadzirwa kwe collagen uye elastin.
Alpha hydroxy acids inonzi yakagadziridzwa wrinkling, roughness uye mottled pigmentation yeganda rakagadzirwa nemapuranga pashure pemwedzi yekushanda kwezuva nezuva.
Alpha inonzi hydroxy acids inowanikwa mumagadzirwa e-skincare inoshanda zvakanakisisa mumusana we5 kusvika ku8 muzana uye pH ye 3 kusvika ku4.
Zvimwe Zvikamu zveAlph Hydroxy Acids
Iyo miviri mikuru yemigumisiro ye alpha hydroxy acids inogumbura uye zuva rinonzwa simba. Zviratidzo zvekutsamwirwa zvinosanganisira kubwinya, kupisa, kuchenesa, kurwadziwa uye pamwe kuora.
Vanhu vane ganda rine ruvara rwemavara vari pangozi yakawanda yekucheka pigment inoshandura ne alpha hydroxy acids. Kushandiswa kwe alpha-hydroxy acids kunogona kuwedzera zuva senitivity ne50 muzana, zvichikonzera dambudziko rinonakidza.
Zvinoratidzika kuti alpha-hydroxy acids inogona kukwanisa kuderedza zvimwe zvinokonzerwa ne photoaging, asi panguva imwecheteyo, vanoita kuti ganda riwedzere kugadziriswa. Zviri pachena kuti ani naani anoshandisa alpha hydroxy acids anofanira kushandisa shisa yakachena yezuva iro rine UVA uye kudzivirirwa kweVBB . Cherechedza kuti many sunscreens haidziviriri pamisana yeUVA, mahara anowanzobatanidzwa mukukwegura kweganda.
FDA Mirayiridzo
Nemhaka yezvinetseka pamusoro pemigumisiro yea alpha hydroxy acids, iyo FDA muna 1997 yakazivisa kuti alpha hydroxy acids yakachengeteka kuti ishandiswe nevatengi vane mirayiridzo inotevera:
- Iko kusungirirwa kweAHA kune 10 muzana kana kuti pasi
- Muchero wokupedzisira une pH ye 3.5 kana kupfuura
- Chigadzirwa chekupedzisira chinofanira kuva nechikanda chezuva chinobudirira mukugadzirisa kana kuchenesa vanhu kushandisa michina yezuva
Chemical Peels
Alpha hydroxy acids muzvikamu zvakasiyana-siyana inoshandiswa mumakemikari peels. Aya maikemikari mapepa anopa migumisiro yakafanana ne microdermabrasion- inotsika mitsetse yakaisvonaka uye kupa ganda chimiro chinyatsooneka kune imwe kana matatu.
Izvi zvinodaro, zvisinei, zvinodzokororwa kwemwedzi mitatu kusvika kumatanhatu kuitira kuti ganda iri rionekwe. Vanachiremba vanogona kushandisa zvinyorwa zveAlphroxy acid izvo zvine musara we50 kusvika ku70 muzana. Alpha hydroxy chemicals peel mishonga inobvisawo makwenzi akanaka uye kubvisa maronda epasi, asi migumisiro inogara kwenguva refu-kusvika kumakore maviri kusvika mashanu.
Iyo yakakwirira yeAlphroxyxy acid concentration inoshandiswa mumakemikari peel, kunyanya kutsamwa kweganda kunoitika. Pakati pe50 kusvika ku70 muzana yekutungidzirwa, munhu anogona kutarisira kuva nekutuka kwakanyanya, kupisa uye kuputika ganda rinogona kupera kwemavhiki mana kana mana.
Alpha neBeta Hydroxy Acids
Kune chete beta imwe hydroxy acid : salicylic acid .
Mhedzisiro huru pakati pe alpha hydroxy acids uye beta hydroxy acid ndiyo lipid (mafuta) inogadziriswa. Alpha hydroxy acids inogadziriswa nemvura chete, asi beta hydroxy acid ipidid (mafuta) yakasanganiswa. Izvi zvinoreva kuti beta hydroxy acid inokwanisa kupinda mukati mepore, iyo ine sebum uye inopfurikidza masvikiro echeche akafa anovakwa mukati mepore.
Nemhaka yekusiyana uku munzvimbo, beta hydroxy acid inoshandiswa zviri nani pane ganda rehuni nemashizha uye machena . Alpha inonzi hydroxy acids inoshandiswa zviri nani pane yakasvibiswa, ganda rinoparadza zuva umo kuputika hakusi dambudziko.
Kusarudza An Alpha Hydroxy Acid Product
Alpha hydroxy acids inowanikwa mumhando dzakasiyana-siyana dzezvigadzirwa zvemishonga, kusanganisira moisturizers, vachenesa, kisi yeziso, sunscreen, uye nheyo. Zvisinei, zvakanakisisa kusarudza chimwe chigadzirwa chine kuumbwa kwakakodzera kweAlph hydroxy acid kuti ishandise sewe exfoliant, uye osarudza mamwe mishonga ekuchengetedza kweganda kana zvipfeko zvisina alpha hydroxy acids kuderedza mukana wekutsamwa kweganda.
Kushandisa an alpha hydroxy acid mumusango wekuchenesa kunogona kuva yakanakisisa kusanganiswa kwezvinhu. Vanochenesa vane alpha hydroxy acids havakwanisi zvikuru nokuti alpha hydroxy acid inofanira kuiswa mukati meganda kushanda. Vanochenesa vanoshambidzwa vasati vanyatsotora.
Chikoro chezuva chinofanira kushandiswa pachena kana uchishandisa alpha hydroxy acid chigadzirwa. Zuva rekudzivirira zuva rinofanira kuva neSSPF yevhisi 15 yekudzivirira UVB uye ine avobenzone, titanium dioxide kana zinc oxide yekudzivirirwa kweUVA.
Alpha hydroxy acids inoshanda zvakanyanya mumakamuri mashanu kusvika ku8 muzana uye pane pH ye3 kusvika ku4. Nhamo, vashandi vezvipfeko havakwanisi kupa ruzivo rwemashoko pamusoro pezita racho. Sezvo mutemo wehuwandu hwechigunwe, kuva nea alpha hydroxy acid yakanyorwa sechipiri kana chechitatu yezvikamu pane urongwa zvinoita kuti zvive nyore kuti ine mamiriro akakodzera. Nzira chete yekuziva nayo chokwadi kuti pH yechigadzirwa ndechekuedza ne pH strip.
Pasi Pepamusoro paAlf Hydroxy Acids yeWrinkling
Alpha-hydroxy acids sechikamu mukunwisa mvura, zvisikwa, kana zvimwe zvinodhaka zvekucheka kweganda zvinogona kuchinja zvimwe zvinokonzerwa ne photoaging. Mune chimiro chekemikari peel, kunyanya pakakwirira zvakanyanya muhofisi yechiremba, idzi idzi dzinogona kuvandudza kuonekwa kwekanakisa wrinkles uye zvinotyisa kwemakore mashomanana. Alpha hydroxy acids inowanzoshanda zvakanaka kune vanhu vane mazamu, ganda rezuva rinoparara, asi beta hydroxy acids inogona kunge yakasarudzwa kune avo vane ganda rakagadzika rakagadzirwa.
Pasinei nekukwanisa kwavo kugadzirisa kuonekwa kweganda rakakonzerwa nezuva, alpha hydroxy acids inogonawo kuwedzera zuva senitivity uye kuwedzera kungozi yeganda nekukurumidza kwezuva. Kupfeka yakanaka yakachena yezuva iyo inosanganisira kuvhara kwevhiri reUVA neVVB inokosha kana ukasarudza kushandisa zvigadzirwa izvi.
> Sources:
> Tran, D., Townley, J., Barnes, T., naK. Greive. An Antiaging Skin Care System Inoenderana neAlph Hydroxy Acids uye Vithamini Inovandudza Biomechanical Parameters yeChisi chechivara. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology . 2014. 8: 9-17.
> Weller, Richard PJB, Hamish JA Hunter, naMargaret W. Mann. Clinical Dermatology. Chichester (West Sussex): John Wiley & Sons Inc., 2015. Print.